10.08.2010

The FASHION HISTORY ~ Modern Sherazad?

I am completely smitten by the exotic Belle Epoque designs of French fashion genius Paul Poiret. Visonnaire, the couturier has revolutionized the vestiaire Belle Epoque and still inspired today collections. Much of the inspiration for the coats, dresses, and accessories on runways today originated in Poiret's designs of almost 100 years ago. I have been struck by several showings this season, but one show in particular has stood out in my mind: Marchesa. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig gave a stunning presentation for their Spring/Summer 2011 collection. But I couldn't help notice lot of references made to fashion history designers, Paul Poiret in particular.
A stated tribute to the King of fashion and his exotic oriental style or a lack in inspiration? Hope you enjoy my fashion history voyage! Do you think Marchesa can stand the comparison?
Right: Paul Poiret, manteau imprimè La perse, 1911
A.E. Marty, manteau imprimè La perse.
Right: George Lepape, Denise Poiret at The Thousand and Second Night party
A Poiret model
George Lapape, Le collier nouveau
Georges Lepape, Les choses de Paul Poiret Paris Maquet, 1911
George Lapape, Les choses de Paul Poiret, 1911,

"Half a century before the feminists of the 60's were burning their bras, the Frenchman Paul Poiret (1879-1944) had already set women free of another restraining undergarment - the corset. Poiret became a celebrity for liberating women from uncomfortable corsets and creating a looser and more untied silhouette based on art-deco forms. The strict silhouettes and pale colors of the 19th century gave way to a new silhouette of untied dresses and chemisiers, unsewn, draped fabrics, and dramatic, oriental-inspired colors.
Creator of bohemian-chic, at the height of his career [before the 1st World War] Poiret was the king of the fashion. It can be argued that, with his groundbreaking vision, Poiret was the first truly modern designer. Much of the inspiration for the coats, dresses, and accessories on runways today originated in Poiret's designs of almost 100 years ago.
Between 1910 an 1913, Poiret's designs were inspired by the ostentatious costumes of the Ballet Russes in Paris and by exotic oriental tales such as 1001 Arabian Nights - he is credited with the introduction of turbans, tunics, and harem pants into Western fashion".
In 1908 and 1911, Poiret commissioned respectively the graphic artists Paul Iribe and Georges Lepape to create illustrations of his dresses that were put together in catalogues offered to Poiret’s clients.The idea was part of the new methods of marketing and promotion adopted by Poiret.



 Article source: Comunidade de moda
Image source for Marchesa: vogue

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